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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary honour.